Hike to the Schäfler via Seealpsee

After the tenth parking sign, I stopped counting. Rip suspects that the farmers here make more money renting out their meadows to hikers with cars than they do from milk and cheese. He’s probably right. The actual parking lots in Wasserauen have long been full, and we rattle across a meadow to a fenced-off area that’s serving as a parking lot today. Or has to, depending on who you ask.

First things first: Anyone looking for a quiet, peaceful hike all by themselves in the Swiss Alps should give Wasserauen, Lake Seealpsee, and the Schäfler a wide berth—at least in the summer and definitely on weekends. The picturesque landscape of the Appenzell Alps regularly attracts hordes of day-trippers, and things can quickly get crowded in the narrow valley basin of Wasserauen.

The hiking trail doesn’t waste any time and really kicks things off right from the start. Just under 300 meters of elevation gain separate Wasserauen from the famous Seealpsee at 1,142 meters. The alpine road gets quite steep, and we deliberately take it easy. While people around us are huffing and puffing, we chat relaxed and pace ourselves so that we’ll still have some energy left after reaching Seealpsee. After about 45 minutes, we arrive—along with a nasty headwind that no one would have expected in this sheltered valley basin. Countless people are milling about on the shore, and the Gasthaus Seealpsee beckons us to make our first stop. We remain steadfast. For now.

We don’t know what the cows in the pastures make of all this commotion. In any case, at the end of the lake, they watch as we turn onto the hiking trail toward the Altenalp alpine farm, which takes us upward meter by meter along steep switchbacks. We have to climb about 450 meters in elevation, in some places on terrain secured with wire ropes and with a view of the deeply carved Wasserauen Valley that gets better with every switchback.

The Altenalp Alpine Farm at 1,595 m is our first rest stop on the hike to Schäfler. It’s located about two-thirds of the way to the popular scenic summit, and here you can refuel with traditional alpine products, listen to the cowbells and the Appenzell dialect, and watch as everyday life fades into the distance far below in the valley. Fresh alpine milk and homemade lemonade get us ready for the final steep 350 meters of elevation gain.

As we all know, “steep” is a relative term. However, the hiking trail from Altenalp to the Schäfler is unquestionably steep, and a head for heights is an absolute prerequisite for this hike. Below the Schäfler’s striking southwest face, the trail winds its way upward, secured in places with wire ropes and iron pegs. This isn’t for everyone, as the alarmed warnings from an oncoming group clearly demonstrate. We remain calm, are well-prepared, and tackle the key section step by step. My two guests, Rip and Suzie, master it with confidence and, a few minutes later, stand on their first summit in the Swiss Alps, right in the middle of their private hiking week. This is exactly what a first-time experience should look like.

The summit of the Schäfler rewards us with a breathtaking view of the Appenzell Mountains and endless vistas of the Alpine foothills. From the Säntis to the Schäfler, the mountains form the first line of high peaks behind Lake Constance, rising up to 2,500 meters above the lowlands. The view sweeps across Switzerland, Germany, and Austria, and fades away somewhere in the haze beyond Lake Constance.

The Berggasthaus Schäfler, located just below the summit, welcomes us with an amazingly wide selection of food and drinks. The large terrace is the perfect place to relax, let your gaze wander, and replenish the calories you’ve just burned with a clear conscience.

The trail continues steadily downhill toward Ebenalp, where a detour to the world-famous Berggasthaus Äscher is well worth it. With our small group, we’re skipping this detour this weekend—half the world seems to be lining up there anyway. Instead, we’ll end our hike—easier on the knees—at the top station of the Ebenalp Cable Car, which takes us back down to the valley in Wasserauen in just a few minutes, offering spectacular, sweeping views along the way. Hopefully, our car is still parked on that meadow.

You can also book the tour to the Schäfler with your own private guide and focus entirely on the view, while the guide takes care of all the logistics, route planning, weather, and conditions. Just contact me for more information.