Day 1: Täschalp, Europaweg, Stellisee, Fluhalp
We meet in Zermatt in the morning and take the mountain taxi up to Täschalp. This isn’t a matter of convenience, but a deliberate choice: The 1,000 meters of elevation gain from the valley is a forest trail, and it takes exactly the kind of energy you’d be better off saving for the climb up.
From there, the Europaweg winds its way like a balcony trail above the Mattertal toward Zermatt. The Matterhorn comes into view right from the first bend and stays with us all day. We walk slowly, stopping wherever it’s worth it, and if the afternoon is warm, we sit somewhere for half an hour longer than planned.
From Sunnegga, the trail leads up to Stellisee, the lake with the most famous reflection of the Alps, and from there in fifteen minutes to Fluhalp at 2,620 meters. Check-in, shower, sun terrace. In the early evening, we head back to the lake once the day-trippers have left and the east face of the Matterhorn catches the last light. Dinner at half past six, and afterward, if the sky is clear, a view upward that you’ve forgotten about in the Swiss Plateau.
About 11 km, roughly 400 to 700 meters of elevation gain depending on the route, 4 to 6 hours including breaks.
Day 2: Findel Glacier, Three Lakes, Gornergrat
If you’re up for it, get up early and head back to Stellisee. In September and early October, the sun rises around the same time breakfast begins at Fluhalp—it almost seems too perfect. Those who’d rather sleep can sleep in.
After breakfast, we cross the moraine of the Findel Glacier to where the meltwater has formed a delta of gray channels and gravel banks. This is a landscape unlike anything in the valley, and one that changes from year to year as the glacier retreats. Then down to Lake Grindji, framed by larch trees with the Matterhorn peeking through the gap, and on to Lake Grünsee.
There we leave the “hiking highway” section behind. The trail up to the Gornergrat is steep, quiet, and rarely used because it makes the hike longer. That’s exactly why we’re taking it. At the top, Lake Gornergrat awaits, followed by the ridge itself at just under 3,000 meters, with the Gorner Glacier, the Dufourspitze, and a string of four-thousanders too numerous to count in a single day.
From there, head down to Riffelberg and take the cogwheel train back to Zermatt. You’ll be back in the valley by the afternoon and home by evening.
About 10 km, roughly 700 meters of elevation gain, 4 to 6 hours including breaks.