In the middle of the night at over 2,000 meters
When I switch off my headlamp, I see nothing but blackness for a moment. Complete darkness surrounds me. But slowly my eyes adjust to the night—the moon is high in the sky, almost perfectly round, because it was full moon just two nights ago. Not a single cloud obscures the view, and above us a network of thousands of tiny stars twinkles. The summer night is warm, and yet I feel a slight chill.
I take a deep breath and enjoy the silence – that special tranquility that can only be found in the mountains. All I can hear around me is a soft murmur, even though I am hiking with a whole group as a hiking guide. Twenty night owls set off with us in the middle of the night from Leukerbad to hike up to the Gemmi.
The tour is part of the 19th Swiss Hiking Night, and we are organizing the night hike to the Gemmi Pass and around Lake Daubensee with beAnywhere. On this night, we all swap our cozy beds for a long climb in the dark. Joining us are Ylva, who is leading part of the group as a hiking guide, and Falko, who is documenting our nighttime adventure with his camera.
It's palpable: everyone around me is enjoying this unique experience. Hiking in the mountains at night feels completely different than during the day. It's almost like entering a secret world that only a few people have access to. But the climb to the rest area wasn't easy for everyone.
Fear of heights never sleeps
One participant had already struggled with a sudden fear of falling further down the Gemmi Wall. She was frozen in place, and even though the “abyss” seemed less threatening in the dark, a break was necessary. Ylva was completely attentive to her, giving her time to face the situation. With sensitivity and positive energy, everyone finally made it to the rest area together.
Fear of heights never sleeps – and neither do sheep, apparently: shortly before reaching the Gemmi Pass, we encounter a herd that accompanies us for a while, their bells ringing through the night until we finally reach the 2,268 m high pass at around three in the morning. A last glance back reveals the few lights of Leukerbad before the trail leads us to the north side of the Lämmerendalu.
Plans are meant to be adjusted
From here on, the terrain becomes flatter, with most of the elevation gain behind us, but this section also has its challenges. As the path narrows and becomes steeper, a participant from my group expresses concern. The terrain is too challenging for her, and she feels uncomfortable. Continuing is not an option for her at this moment. I am always glad when my guests communicate openly when they feel uncertain. This allows us to react early, provide support, or look for alternatives.
After a brief discussion, Falko steps in and accompanies the two participants with a fear of heights on an easier route. This allows Ylva and I to continue with our groups. Taking photos would have been difficult in the upcoming passage anyway – and at the end of Lake Daubensee, we will all meet up again and cover the rest of the way together.
Fatigue and renewed energy
We hike along the shore of Lake Daubensee in an almost meditative state. It is now 4:30 a.m., and the group has fallen silent. The climb and the sleepless night are slowly taking their toll. The terrain is mostly easy, but requires concentration in places. Ylva and I repeatedly remind our groups to stay alert and attentive.
Then finally: the first light of day. Above the Chli Rinderhorn, the sky begins to glow magically. Sunrise is still over an hour away, but the soft twilight is enough to awaken new vitality.
We tackle the last section, hiking along the lake towards Gemmi Lodge. Below the Plattenhörner, it is already broad daylight when we arrive at the Gemmi Bahnen viewing platform. The panorama is breathtaking: the peaks of the surrounding four-thousand-meter mountains on the southern side of Valais glisten in the first rays of sunshine, while deep below us lies the still sleepy town of Leukerbad.
Here, too, there is little conversation – mainly amazement. It is a moment that many will remember for a long time. An atmosphere that can only be experienced in the mountains. I look around and see tired but beaming faces. It makes me happy that we were able to offer 20 guests an unforgettable night of hiking.
With panoramic views, hot coffee, and fresh croissants, we bring our adventure at the Gemmi Lodge to a close before taking the train back down to the valley – and for some, straight to bed. I will fondly remember the amazed and incredulous faces as we float in the gondola above our ascent route on the steep Gemmiwand for a long time to come. 😊
Thank you to all the night owls who joined us on our journey. Good night – and hopefully see you at the next Swiss hiking night!
