Crossing the main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé

Crossing the main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé

Easy ridge climbing on excellent rock above the Cabane de Moiry

Author: Falko Burghausen
Falko Burghausen

Route information is available for this story:

Main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé (southern part to the Col du Gardien)

PD / 2c (E2)
StoriesOctober 2025

The traverse of the southern part of the Aiguilles de la Lé, crossing the 3,190 m high main summit, is an easy climb high above the Glacier de Moiry and ideal as a training ground or a relaxed half-day tour.

The journey to Val d'Anniviers alone is a little adventure. Deep down in the Rhone Valley near Sierre, the winding mountain road begins, winding its way up the steep slopes of the sandy rock valley for hundreds of meters until you reach Vissoie. If you suffer from travel sickness, it's best to take a break in this small mountain village, because we are still a long way from our destination. Via the picturesque Valais village of Grimentz, we continue to climb on small roads until we reach the final stage to Lac de Moiry at an altitude of 2,248 meters – a reservoir used for energy production which, along with Lac de Dix, is part of the huge and ramified system of tunnels that stretches from the Mattertal to the Val d'Hérens.

Ascent to Cabane de Moiry

Once we reach the reservoir, we are almost at our destination and simply glide along the turquoise-green Lac de Moiry to the spacious parking lot at the end of the reservoir. This is where the ascent to Cabane de Moiry begins – not because we need to spend the night in a hut for this tour across the southern part of the Aiguilles de la Lé, but because the hut, located at an altitude of 2,826 m, is on our ascent route and tempts us with fresh, homemade sandwiches that are cheaper than a baguette in town and taste better – crispy and hearty, just what you need in the cool mountain air.

Goal in sight

The Col du Pigne beckons

The next section of the trail is less beautiful than necessary, but its moderate terrain (large gneiss blocks, rubble-covered sandy rock slabs) is compensated for by impressive views of the Pointe de Moiry and the impressive break-off of the Glacier de Moiry. How long will this upper section of the glacier remain connected to the lower section? Probably not too long...

Fortunately, it is only about 300 meters of elevation gain from the Cabane de Moiry to the 3,137-meter-high Col du Pigne. Those who want to and have time can add on the ascent to the 3,396 m high Pigne de la Lé – but we skip the rocky climb and turn directly to the beautiful rocky ridge of the southern Aiguilles de la Lé.

Varied climbing

Aiguilles de la Lé – the south ridge of P. 3190

Even though the ridge route described in guidebooks often omits this section and starts directly from the Col du Gardien, the southern section still has a certain appeal, as it is only here that we cross the main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé, a 3,190 m high point at the southern end of this approximately two-kilometer-long massif in the middle of the Valais Alps.

Varied, never really difficult climbing alternates with short walking passages as we overcome the ridge step by step and slowly gain altitude. The rock is mostly rock-solid, the view is simply beautiful, and the difficulty never exceeds the lower third degree. Shortly before the main summit, the ridge steepens, and the ridge climb turns into a short, easy second-degree wall scramble and a short, trickier section to get back onto the actual ridge. Now it doesn't take long before we stand at the iron summit cross of the Aiguilles de la Lé at 3,190 m and take a short break to replenish our energy reserves.

Aiguilles de la Lé Integral

Via the abseiling point to the most exciting part of the ridge

Shortly after the summit, a 15-meter-high abseiling point awaits us, leading us to a shady flank directly below the ridge. After pulling up the rope, we continue over exciting and varied rocky outcrops to the 3,178 m Gendarm, which looms rather forbiddingly in front of us. What appears to be insurmountable quickly turns out to be an easily navigable traverse, and a little later we are already standing on the second summit of this short but no less rewarding traverse.

You won't find any bolts here in 2025, but for the most part they aren't necessary. Only at one point directly below P. 3178, a breezy traverse on moderate rock, does one wonder about the bent bolt that could prevent a rope team from falling here. Without it, it is difficult to provide adequate protection at this point. Since this part of the Aiguilles de la Lé is often crossed as part of high-altitude mountaineering courses, the missing bolt is simply a shame. We do not know the reasons why the bolts have been sawed off in some places – whether it is due to the ongoing controversy surrounding bolts or other reasons, we cannot say.

From P. 3178, we descend on easy terrain to the Col du Gardien at 3,069 m before ending our little traverse with the descent through a long boulder field back to the Cabane de Moiry. Once again, delicious baguettes await us here – or would we rather try a piece of hut cake this time? Whatever you decide, relaxing on the hut terrace with a view of the surrounding mountains is a must, as is marveling at the successful modern architecture of the Cabane de Moiry, which skillfully combines old and new.

Back down to the valley...

...means retracing your steps along the entertaining hut trail over the huge moraine of the Glacier de Moiry, but this time descending. Once that's done, there's still the long drive back to Sierre, but it's worth making a quick stop in Grimentz to admire the venerable Valais houses in the old village center.

A successful trip to a beautiful, moderate, and short ridge crossing over the southern part of the Aiguilles de la Lé comes to an end. What remains are memories of the impressive but rapidly melting glacier and the many unforgettable moments on this mountain tour in the heart of Valais – true to the motto “Gravé dans mon cœur”.

Information about the route

Main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé (southern part to the Col du Gardien)
PD / 2c (E2)

The traverse of the southern part of the Aiguilles de la Lé is a varied and stimulating ridge climb with a low degree of difficulty, ideal as a practice tour or shorter half-day tour. If you wish, you can combine this section with the entire traverse and thus complete the Aiguilles de la Lé Integral.

Facts & figures

Grade

Seriousness

Total time

Ascent

Descent

Highest point

3'190 m

Distance

9 km

Region

SwitzerlandValais

Activity type

Route description

The traverse starts at the Cabane de Moiry (2,826 m). Follow the white-blue-white marked hiking trail through boulder fields and over some sandy and flat passages up to an altitude of approx. 3,000 m, where the trail turns east and crosses a small valley floor. Now it's just a few minutes' climb up to the 3,137 m high Col du Pigne.

This is where the actual climb begins on the south ridge of the main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé. Follow the ridge, which is not very pronounced at the beginning, either directly on the ridge line or, depending on the terrain, slightly to the right or left of the ridge (walking terrain and a few sections of grade I). Further on, the ridge becomes steeper and is followed by easy, sloping wall climbing at grade II over well-stepped terrain. A short section requires a bold move to reach the ridge again, which is somewhat exposed but easy (2c). Over rock slabs directly on or just below the grassy edge, you will reach the main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé (3,190 m, summit cross) in a few minutes.

From the summit, a few meters slightly east of the ridge edge to a rappelling point set up on a drilled sand timer sling (rope with Million Rapide available). It goes without saying that the rope must be carefully checked for its condition. Rappell about 15 m vertically to a small ledge on the east flank a few meters below the ridge. From here, return to the ridge and enjoy some exciting climbing on excellent rock to the foot of the following gendarme (P. 3178 on the map). The climbing here ranges from 2a to 2c and can be easily secured with slings.

The gendarme that follows (P. 3178), which at first glance appears very forbidding, is easily bypassed on the exposed west side. Follow a grassy ledge over a small balcony and then turn back up from the west to climb the summit of the gendarme with easy climbing (2a). This passage is exposed and difficult to secure; unfortunately, the bolt that was here has been removed.

From P. 3178, simply follow (I) the faint northern ridge to reach Col du Gardien (3,069 m). Keep slightly westward over shady ledges and rocky ridges to reach the small valley of large boulders that leads back to Cabane de Moiry.

In a northward arc, you bypass a rock step at an altitude of around 3,000 m and descend over the scree slope towards the hut. At an altitude of approx. 2,840 m, you reach a trail along a water pipe, which you follow to the hut.

Difficulty

The southern part of the traverse of the Aiguilles de la Lé can be rated WS / 2c. This is not the complete traverse of the Aiguilles de la Lé, which is technically more difficult and significantly longer! The difficulty on the southern part is limited to a few short sections, most of which can be mitigated with slings or good rope handling. The bypass of P. 3178 is technically easy but exposed and can be mentally challenging, especially for beginners, as it is difficult to secure.

It is possible to turn back after the abseil point (the section is probably around grade III on the ascent), but this is not advisable in the event of a change in weather. In this case, it is better to press on and quickly complete the traverse via P. 3178.

Key passage

The route has several short key sections:

  • A short section (2c) just before the main summit, which is slightly overhanging and requires a single, courageous grab.
  • The ridge passage after the abseil point offers short sections in the second degree with easy climbing.
  • The traverse west of P. 3178 is easy (2a), but difficult to secure and mentally challenging, especially for beginners.

Gear

  • 30 m single rope (also sufficient for the Aiguilles de la Lé Integral)
  • Several slings
  • 2-3 medium friends (Camalot 0.75-2)

Best season

From early summer, as soon as the ridge is free of snow. The ridge section after the short abseil point is particularly shaded and can be tricky when covered in snow.

The approach to Col du Pigne should also be free of snow, as the extensive boulder field is otherwise very difficult to negotiate.

Arrival

From Sierre, drive via Vissoie and Grimentz up to Lac de Moiry (winding mountain road). There is a large paid parking lot at the end of the reservoir. From here, follow the white-red-white marked hiking trail for about 1.5 hours up to Cabane de Moiry.

Starting point

The starting point for the southern part of the Aiguilles de la Lé traverse is the Cabane de Moiry at 2,826 m. The hut can be easily reached via the marked hiking trail from the parking lot at Lac de Moiry (approx. 1.5 hours).

View on Google Maps

Good to know

Varied traverse of the main summit of the Aiguilles de la Lé

Ideal as a training or half-day tour from the nearby Cabane de Moiry

Modern hut infrastructure with impressive views of the Glacier de Moiry

With appropriate behavior, it is possible to spend the night in a camper at the parking lot at Lac de Moiry

Many other tour options, e.g., crossing Couronne de Bréonna, crossing Pointes du Mourti and Dent des Rosses, Pigne de la Lé, or Grand Cornier

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About Falko Burghausen

Falko Burghausen
Falko is a passionate, internationally awarded outdoor photographer and certified trail running guide (esa / Swiss Athletics). His camera travels with him along alpine trails, through the vast landscapes of Scandinavia, and right into the action – always with an eye for light, composition, and genuine moments. With a background in software engineering, he brings structure to his work; as an athlete, he thrives on flow. Whether running or shooting, Falko focuses on what’s real – stripped down, close up, and full of feel for landscape, motion, and emotion.
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